Apple Tree Pruning Techniques and Methods Explained in Detail
Apple is a health-preserving fruit with extremely rich nutritional value. Apple cultivation is also very widespread; not only are large areas planted in many parts of China, but according to statistics, more than eighty countries and regions around the world have planted apple trees. Apple tree pruning is a skilled task. Let's learn about the methods of apple tree training and pruning together with the editor!
Apple Tree Pruning Techniques
Apple trees should be pruned in winter, basically when the leaves have mostly fallen; fertilize after the beginning of spring, dig a pit 1.5 m from the roots, and apply organic fertilizer.
The methods differ for apple trees of different ages. For young trees, the key is to establish the main trunk: at about 1 m, keep three main trunks at 120 degrees to each other and cut off the central leader on this basis; afterward remove the upward-growing branches from the main trunks while retaining the outer branches, so that the three main trunks grow into a round canopy. Pruning of mature trees has three purposes: first, to regulate alternate bearing, in an "on" year thinning out some fruiting branches to ensure sufficient nutrition for fruit set; second, to keep the tree shape round and remove vertical water sprouts; third, to make the canopy properly spaced to ensure good sunlight and ventilation.
Apple Tree Training and Pruning Indicators
1. Tree height: for dwarfing rootstock, trunk height 0.8~1.0 m, tree height 3.0~3.5 m; for standard rootstock, trunk height 1.0~1.5 m, tree height 2.5~3.0 m; no overlap between trees within the row, keep a 1~1.5 m working aisle between rows, and canopy coverage of 75%.
2. Branch quantity: after pruning, about 80,000 shoots per mu are retained in an apple orchard, of which medium and short shoots account for 70%, and terminal flower buds account for about 30%.
3. Branch groups: in the early stage of the open-center form, focus on developing small and medium branch groups, emphasizing the selection of various branch groups that grow obliquely or downward on the main branches, and then year by year develop them into large, drooping, three-dimensional fruiting branch clusters. In the spindle form, the small main branches are borne as branch groups with wide opening angles.
Spindle Pruning of Apple Trees
1. Apple tree structure: tree height 3.0~3.5 m, trunk height 0.7~0.8 m, with 20~25 small main branches arranged on the central leader, spaced 10~15 cm apart, main branch angle 90~100°, shorter at the top and bottom, slightly longer in the middle, overlap rate between trees not exceeding 10%, mainly applied to dwarfing and spur-type varieties and to temporary trees on standard rootstock.
2. Pruning of young trees: the key points for pruning young trees (1~5 years) are to form a good tree shape and promote tree vigor, laying the foundation for early fruiting and high yield. Strong seedlings are not headed; weak seedlings (below 1 m) are headed at a plump bud. Remove strong vigorous branches on the central leader to strengthen the dominance of the central leader. According to the requirements of the tree form, starting from more than 70 cm above the ground, select and retain small main branches at 10~15 cm intervals, arranging them in a spiral pattern, selecting and retaining them year by year upward to meet the requirements of the spindle tree form. Remove branches on the back, overly dense branches, and overlapping branches.
3. Pruning of mature trees: the key points for pruning mature trees (≥6 years) are to improve the tree structure and develop fruiting branches. The central leader extends vertically, the small main branches extend on a single axis, and the branch-to-trunk ratio should preferably be 1:3. Small main branches are managed dynamically; following the principle of removing large ones and keeping small ones, and removing old ones and keeping new ones, plan to focus on removing overly large main branches exceeding 1/3 of the trunk, and develop small main branches arranged in a spiral pattern. To develop fruiting branches: first, select and retain lateral, drooping, moderate branches as fruiting branches; second, remove strong vigorous branches on the back of the small main branches.
4. Growing-season pruning: before and after bud break, make notches above the buds at positions on the central leader and main branches where branches are lacking, to stimulate new shoots. Bend branches according to the target tree form requirements; 1~2-year-old branches should preferably be bent from mid-August to mid-September, and branches 3 years and older should preferably be bent from after spring flowering to mid-May (before bagging), using the steps of "one push, two rub, three press, four fix" so that they are bent to the required angle and are straight without "bowing". For main branches that grow extremely vigorously and are not easy to flower, make ring cuts from late May to early June, remove useless branches such as root suckers, water sprouts, and overly dense branches, and when the central leader and main branch extension shoots of young trees reach 40 cm, pinch the tips to stimulate branching.
Common Misconceptions in Apple Tree Training and Pruning
1. Heavy pruning but light bending. That is, bending branches late and not opening the angle enough. At present, severe canopy crowding is common in apple-producing areas, and the cause is that branches are bent too late and the opening angle is insufficient. The correct approach is that in the second year after planting, the basal angle of the branches should be opened; when the extended length of a branch reaches 40% of the in-row spacing, the branch should be bent promptly to 80~90 degrees. This is the key to building a good tree structure.
2. Being unwilling to remove large branches. Some trees have six or seven large branches in the lower part. They are especially crowded, light conditions deteriorate, causing fruiting branches inside the main branches to die, and the fruiting position shifts seriously outward; the outer parts of the large branches have already extended into "illegal" space, creating a dilemma where removing them is a pity but keeping them affects the space. To solve this problem, excess large branches should be removed in stages and batches according to the principle of "survival of the fittest," and the lateral branches of the retained main branches should be used to occupy the space. Large branches on the middle and upper parts of the canopy whose basal diameter exceeds 1/2 of the diameter at their point of attachment should also be renewed in time, replacing them with nearby slender branches that extend on a single axis. If renewal is truly impossible, the large branch should be restructured: remove the "large lateral and keep a weak head," open the angle, control its vigor, make a ring cut at its base in summer to promote the sprouting of latent buds at the base, and gradually develop the emerging shoots into renewal branches.
3. Trees too tall and trunks too low. For trees that are too tall, generally 3~5 years after entering full fruiting, the top should be lowered, adjusting tree height to 3~3.5 m, generally not higher than 80% of the row spacing. Trunk height should generally be 60~80 cm. If too low, it should be raised gradually, using upper branches to replace lower ones. After fruit trees are planted, a suitable position should be selected for the first tier of branches, and those below should be resolutely removed to eliminate future trouble.
As described above, apple tree pruning is very important; it can make apple trees more beautiful and generous, and can also extend the life of apple trees. The pruning methods for apple trees are diverse, and as long as you master the techniques, they are largely similar. The edible value of apples is very high, and eating apples can also help with weight loss and beauty!