How to Propagate Epiphyllum (Orchid Cactus): Cuttings and Grafting Techniques onto Cactus
Many people, upon hearing the name "Epiphyllum" (orchid cactus), think it is a lotus growing in water, but it is actually a potted plant. Epiphyllum has extremely high ornamental value and is very popular for home potted plants and gardening arrangements. So how is Epiphyllum propagated? What techniques are there for grafting Epiphyllum onto cactus? Let's take a look together.
How to Propagate Epiphyllum (by Cuttings)
1. Cutting soil
Choose fertile, loose soil. Keep in mind that the more fertile the soil, the more vigorous the growth of the cuttings; even with controlled water and fertilizer, they can grow completely normally. There will be no shriveling of the stems, and the survival rate can reach over 90%.
2. Cutting method
Bury the upper end of a stem segment about 10 cm long into the soil to a depth of about 7 cm, leaving the lower cut end exposed outside; roots will form in 20 days. In about 40 days it can break through the soil.
Don't worry that Epiphyllum is difficult to propagate by cuttings because it has no leaves. Although respiration is limited by the lack of leaves, the stem segments will grow many aerial roots to help with respiration. If during cutting you find many aerial roots, you can water a little appropriately and add some soil, making it easier to survive.
3. Care after cutting
In autumn, Epiphyllum will continue to grow branches and leaves; this is also the second vigorous growth period of the year, and the new leaves gradually age and mature. The management and care methods are basically the same as in spring and early summer. You can apply topdressing 2 to 3 times, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and increase the light duration.
In addition, repot Epiphyllum with fresh soil once every 1 to 2 years, which can be done in either spring or autumn. When repotting, remove some of the old soil and dead roots, add new potting soil (a mix of leaf mold, garden soil, sand, and organic fertilizer), and place hoof parings in as base fertilizer.
Techniques for Grafting Epiphyllum onto Cactus
1. Choosing the rootstock
The cactus used as grafting rootstock should be chosen for broad cold tolerance, vigorous growth, being of the current year or the previous year, and having thick, large stem pads. It is even better if you can cultivate a well-developed root system in advance. Of course, you can also graft and plant at the same time, but the effect is not as good as the former.
2. Choosing the scion
For the Epiphyllum stem pads used as scion, choose ones that are moderately old and tender; one or two pieces are enough, and too many are not advisable, lest the burden be too heavy in the early stage of grafting, the water evaporation be large, and the scion shrivel before it has healed.
3. Preparing the scion
After the scion is selected, make a slanted cut on each side of the base of the scion, about 2 cm long, cutting both sides so that the cut end is shaped like a duck bill. When cutting, do it in one stroke, keeping it as flat and straight as possible, not uneven.
4. Preparing the rootstock
Before grafting, first cut the upper part of the rootstock flat and level; the amount removed depends on the width of the scion. The width of the cactus after cutting should be slightly greater than the width of the scion, so that after the scion is inserted there is still a little margin, allowing for the stem pads to gradually thicken over time, so that the cactus will not split open.
5. Making the join
To make the rootstock and scion firmly combine, the cambium layers of both must be aligned. For this, when grafting you can use a bamboo strip slightly wider than the scion, cut its tip into a duck-tongue shape, sterilize it, then first insert it vertically about 3 cm, pull it out, and then insert the scion. After the scion is inserted, because the cactus body has sticky sap it will be pushed out; to secure it, you can use two of the cactus's own spines inserted front and back. To prevent evaporation and accidental water entering the graft site when watering later, it is best to drip a little candle wax around the graft to seal the joint.
6. Management and care: Do not water within half a month after grafting (you can water thoroughly once a few days before grafting). Keep it in a shady place for one week after grafting, then place it in a half-shade, half-sun spot for the next week; generally it will take hold in about half a month.
Pruning Principles for Epiphyllum
When pruning Epiphyllum, in principle you need to keep the side buds on the lower part of the plant and remove the side buds on the upper part; when it sends out new shoots, you need to ensure sufficient nutrition, and after the new shoots have grown you can pinch off the tips. Those that bloom are generally old branches; new branches do not bloom, so when pruning do not prune the old branches, but branches over five years old can be pruned, and old leaves that have already bloomed can also be pruned.
Can Epiphyllum Be Eaten
Epiphyllum is edible, but not all parts can be eaten.
The petals of Epiphyllum can be eaten and have the effect of promoting blood circulation and relieving pain. They also have good medicinal value. The stems of Epiphyllum can be used as medicine and can promote blood circulation and relieve pain. The flowers can be eaten, served cold dressed, added to noodles, or picked when in full bloom, dried, and brewed as tea.
The benefit of eating Epiphyllum is beauty care; for the vast number of female compatriots it is an excellent skin care product.
I believe everyone likes this plant very much. If needed, you can grow a pot at home; it can not only decorate the home environment but also has extremely high medicinal value. Eating Epiphyllum can beautify the skin, which is good news for the vast number of women.