Fuchsia Propagation by Cuttings and Tips for Pruning Branches and Leaves
Fuchsia, also called lantern flower, is a peculiar and beautiful flowering plant with very high ornamental value. Although fuchsia is very popular among gardening enthusiasts, many people do not understand how to propagate this unique plant. Fuchsia grows quickly and ages rapidly, so if you want to keep renewing the plant, you must master its propagation method.
Fuchsia propagation by cuttings
1. Cutting time
Apart from the summer dormancy period, fuchsia can be propagated by cuttings at any other time as long as the temperature is suitable, but mid-November to mid-April is the most suitable period each year. This is because during this period the plant is in its peak growing season, so healthy and vigorous branches can be selected for cuttings, and since the temperature is cooler, the cuttings are less likely to rot after planting, and the survival rate is also very high.
2. Selection of cuttings
The cuttings should be chosen from the current year's growth, and must be selected from shoots that have not yet become woody, preferably with tender tips. The cuttings should be cut to a length of 6-10 cm, and the lower leaves should be removed. Note that when taking the cuttings, it is best to use sterilized scissors and to keep the cut surface of the cutting as smooth as possible; do not pinch them off directly with your hands.
3. Preparation of the substrate and cutting bed
The cutting substrate is best made of sieved fine river sand, but it must be scalded and washed with boiling water for disinfection. The cutting bed can be a shallow basin or a wooden box, which should also be sprayed beforehand with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution for disinfection. If gardening enthusiasts find this troublesome, they can simply buy soil directly.
4. Cutting method
Before planting, first soak the cuttings in vitamin B12 for 20 minutes; branches that have been soaked will grow very well afterwards.
Use a thin bamboo stick to poke a small hole in the sand, then insert the cutting into the hole in the sand, with a depth of 3 to 4 cm being suitable, and keep a distance of about 8 cm between cuttings to help them take root before being potted up. After cutting, water thoroughly and cover with plastic film to retain moisture. Do not expose them to strong sun; ordinary temperatures are fine.
5. Management after cutting
After cutting, the cutting bed should be placed indoors in a spot with diffused light and must not be exposed to direct sunlight. Keep the room temperature at around 20 degrees Celsius, and only after a week may they receive some light. Spray water into the pot frequently; if cuttings are taken in winter, spray once a day, and in spring spray once each in the morning and evening. Keep the soil humidity above 80%. In winter they generally take root in 25 days, and in spring in 20 days.
How to prune the branches and leaves of fuchsia
1. Cross-shaped training method
This method is suitable for varieties whose branches spread at a relatively small angle (with branches growing upward), such as ‘Zijinchui’. When the young seedling is taller than 20 cm, pinch off the top to encourage the growth of new branches. Because the side branches generally grow symmetrically, when pruning you should keep the two symmetrical branches above and remove all the branches and leaves below.
When the side branches grow to about 10 cm, pinch off the tips, and once new branches grow out, just let them grow. Be careful to cut off side branches growing inward or downward at any time. After pruning in the same way, keep 8 to 10 flowering branches for a pot with a diameter of 15 cm to 18 cm.
2. Pagoda-shaped training method
This method is suitable for varieties whose side branches spread at a large angle (with branches extending horizontally) and that grow vigorously, such as ‘White Sepal’ and ‘Maiden's Skirt’. When the plant is still small, do not pinch off the top; when it grows to 20 cm, cut off all branches and leaves below 10 cm. After the side branches grow, to avoid overlapping branches, a layered training method can be used. Keep one pair of symmetrical branches on each layer, remove one pair of symmetrical branches, then keep another layer of symmetrical branches, and repeat this process.
3. Natural-form training method
This is suitable for varieties with creeping branches and weak growth, as well as large-flowered and double-flowered varieties. Prune them into a natural form according to their shape. When the young seedling grows to 30-40 cm, pinch off the top of the main stem, remove adjacent overlapping branches, and shorten long branches to encourage branching. Cut off side branches growing inward at any time to promote a graceful plant shape.
How to water fuchsia
1. Fuchsia likes a moist soil environment and is not tolerant of drought. When watering, follow the principle of “dry then wet”: water when the soil is dry, and water thoroughly when you do.
2. In spring, when the weather is dry, spray water on the branches and leaves once or twice a day, and avoid overwatering, which can cause waterlogging in the pot. In summer, place the plant under a shade shelter, frequently spray water on the leaf surface or sprinkle water on the ground, and improve ventilation. In winter, watering must be strictly controlled so that the pot soil does not become too wet. After each fertilization and watering, loosen the soil in time to let air in.
3. In daily care, water the leaf surface and the area near the flower pot in the morning and evening; at midday when the temperature is high, do not spray water directly on the leaf surface, but you may spray more water near the flower pot. During the plum rain season in the south, it needs to be placed indoors to avoid root rot and death.
How to fertilize fuchsia
1. Fuchsia likes fertilizer. After the plant starts growing in spring, apply a nitrogen fertilizer once every half month to promote the growth of branches and leaves; by May, the plant begins to enter the peak period of growth and flowering, and at this time you can apply a fertilizer combining nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium once every half month to encourage the plant to produce more side branches and bloom continuously; in the hot summer, no fertilization is needed; in September, you can apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer twice and stop applying nitrogen fertilizer; in winter, fertilization should be stopped.
2. Also note that before fertilizing, make sure the pot soil is dry, and after fertilizing, spray water once to prevent the leaves from being stained by the fertilizer solution and rotting. At the same time, try to avoid applying only nitrogen fertilizer; you may apply nitrogen fertilizer alone when the plant is obviously deficient in nutrients and the leaves are yellow, thin and small.
In fact, growing a pot of fuchsia at home is a very good choice. Its flower colors are colorful, and seen from a distance it looks like many colorful lanterns hanging there, which can bring a very good visual effect. In addition, it can also absorb carbon dioxide and release the oxygen people need.