How to grow potted roses (Rosa multiflora) at home? A detailed guide to watering methods

The rose has a spirit of unyielding resilience, its fragrance drifts far, the thorny red rose. Through the ages, beautiful lines describing the rose are too numerous to count: each blossom full of spirit, each leaf soft, after rain or shine its fragrance brushes past and intoxicates. The Shi family's brocade screen still stands, leaning idly in the wild wind, uncollected through the night. The rose is quite popular with families, so how do you grow potted roses at home?

How to grow potted roses at home

Soil: the best soil is 2 parts rice husk ash + 3 parts leaf mold + 5 parts garden soil (easy to buy).

Pot: choose a pot with good breathability, and as the plant gradually grows, the pot must also be gradually increased in size.

Light: do not let it be exposed to the scorching summer sun, and do proper shading work.

Overwintering: it must be moved indoors; if in the south, it can be placed indoors to overwinter (the northern winter will freeze it into a rose ice sculpture).

Ventilation: loosen the soil frequently, but never damage the roots when loosening the soil, and also ensure the environment is well ventilated.

Humidity: if the environment is relatively dry, spray a small amount of water on the leaves and flowers; the finer the mist, the better, to increase the air humidity.

Fertilizing: fertilize about once every fifteen days, preferably with liquid fertilizer. Fertilize once after the flowers fade, when buds sprout, and before dormancy.

How to water potted roses

Watering can keep the soil in a suitable state for a long time, with appropriate moisture; it must not be too wet, and there must never be waterlogging. Watering must also change with the seasons:

In spring the water demand increases, so the amount of water must be continuously increased; the plant is in its growth period and needs a large amount of water, so you can water once each in the morning and evening;

In summer the temperature is higher and water evaporates faster, so the amount of watering must also be increased; same as in spring, watering can be done in the morning and evening;

In winter the plant is in a dormant state, so just keep the soil slightly moist.

How to prune potted roses

It is best to finish when the axillary buds begin to swell at the end of the plant's dormancy. In the south this is usually from early to mid-January to the end of February, while in the north pruning is mostly done from February to the end of March.

Dormant pruning mainly removes from the base the dead branches, diseased and pest-damaged branches, crossing branches, thin and weak branches, and tender shoots that sprouted after autumn. The knife and shears used for pruning must be sharp so that the cut is smooth and the branch is prevented from splitting. Choose and keep axillary buds that grow outward; the cut should be about 0.5 cm above the axillary bud, slanting inward at a 45° angle. This kind of pruning lets the branches spread out evenly and keeps the plant ventilated and light-transmitting.

For a potted one-year-old seedling, cut off about 2/3 of new branches taller than 30 cm, cut off about 1/2 of those less than 30 cm, and plants that are too small may not be pruned.

Common pests and diseases of roses and their control methods

1. Scarab beetles

Damage symptoms:

They mainly appear on the leaves. Older people will say that bugs on the leaves are a sign of health, meaning the plant has not been sprayed with pesticide, but one is healthy while many scarab beetles are a disaster.

Scarab beetles mainly harm the roots, leaves, flower buds and other parts, seriously affecting flower yield and quality.

Control methods: light trapping, willow branch trapping, shaking to capture and kill, etc.

When the damage is severe, spray 2.5% deltamethrin 2000-3000 times dilution; the effect is good, but it must never be sprayed during the flowering period.

2. Slug moths:

Damage symptoms:

On perennial roses, slug moths may occur, appearing from June to August, and most severe in August. They gnaw the leaves, causing leaf damage, and in severe cases the leaves become net-like. Moreover, the wounds are easily infected, causing disease.

Control methods:

In winter, promptly check the branches and trunk of the rose for insect eggs, cut them off in time, and remove the source of infection.

When the pest damage is severe, spray chemicals such as malathion emulsifiable concentrate and fuling emulsifiable concentrate.

3. Aphids:

Damage symptoms:

Roses grown at home are often harmed by aphids. When the disease occurs, dense white insects cover the leaves, and the leaves slowly wilt and turn black. Flowers also suffer, withering and falling early.

Control methods:

Combined with pruning, thoroughly clean up the spent flowers, diseased branches and dead leaves.

When a small number of aphids is found, rinse with clean water; this both kills the aphids and cleans the leaves, improving ornamental value and promoting respiration on the leaf surface. When a large number of aphids is found, immediately isolate the plant and spray a fungicidal agent.

When the household rose's branches and leaves are too luxuriant. It sways not, yet its fragrance is already in disarray; without wind, the flowers fly on their own. The spring boudoir cannot be still; opening the box to face the Bright Consort. The curved pool floats with glistening hues, the slanted bank arrays in lingering grace. At times one hears a sweet note pass, and now and then sees one return with mud in beak. And facing the clear goblet so deep, the rose not only has a beautiful meaning, but also infinite value; water the rose with care, and she will open the most brilliantly colored flowers.