How to prune chrysanthemum branches and leaves for a beautiful look and its propagation methods

In ancient times, Tao Yuanming's line “Picking chrysanthemums by the eastern fence, leisurely I see the southern mountains” instantly elevated the chrysanthemum into the ranks of the Four Gentlemen of Flowers, making it widely renowned. In fact, chrysanthemums are highly ornamental, and many precious chrysanthemum varieties are priceless, rarely seen by ordinary people. Moreover, chrysanthemums also have medicinal value; the most common use is drying them to make chrysanthemum tea, which has the effects of dispelling wind-heat, calming liver yang, clearing the liver and improving eyesight, and clearing heat and detoxifying.

How to prune chrysanthemum branches and leaves for a beautiful look

1. When chrysanthemums are in the strong seedling stage, they will grow many axillary buds, which should be pinched off promptly with your fingers. Otherwise, they will consume a large amount of nutrients and sprout many small branches, causing the plant to become messy and unruly, ruining its aesthetic appeal. When chrysanthemums are in the bud stage, side buds sometimes grow on the small branches of the terminal bud. Apart from those that need to be kept, the rest should be promptly cut off with tweezers to promote the plumpness of the terminal bud.

2. Timely pinching can promote the growth of side branches and lower the plant height. Because chrysanthemums have different artistic shapes, the timing and frequency of pinching for potted plants also differ. In northern regions, ordinary household potted chrysanthemums generally retain 4—7 flowers. After the chrysanthemum seedlings are planted, pinch again while retaining 4—5 leaves. When its side branches grow 4—5 leaves, retain 2—3 leaves on each side branch and carry out a second pinching.

Chrysanthemum propagation methods

1. For chrysanthemum propagation, we might think of using seeds, but this method is too clumsy, and the seedlings grow slowly, so it is generally not adopted. First, select a robust chrysanthemum plant, preferably choosing a seedling that is growing very well. Use scissors to cut off the flower stem, then cut it into segments of about 7 cm each. Each small branch should not have more than 2 leaves to prevent water evaporation.

2. Dry the prepared chrysanthemum stems in the sun for 1 to 2 days, but be careful not to expose them to blazing sun! This is to let the wounds heal. Before inserting the stems into the soil, you can soak them in appropriate white sugar water for one hour to help them take root! Also, appropriately sprinkle water on the leaf surfaces to replenish moisture. After about a month, the seedlings will take root and sprout, and then they can be transplanted into flower pots.

How to grow chrysanthemums well

1. The soil chosen should be the type that drains easily and does not easily become sticky, so that when chrysanthemums grow, they will not be waterlogged and can stay dry. The chosen location should also be sheltered from the wind, not facing it, otherwise the chrysanthemums will be damaged by the wind. There are many kinds of chrysanthemum propagation processes, and you can choose various ones, but it depends on personal preference and patience for growing chrysanthemums. However, it is generally recommended that ordinary households can choose cuttings for planting chrysanthemums.

2. As for chrysanthemums liking fertilizer, this must be taken into consideration when planting, even for home cultivation. Remember, when fertilizing, be sure to first spread the fertilizer on top, then water thoroughly, so that the fertilizer can fully penetrate into the chrysanthemum's root system with the water, and only then will it be absorbed by the chrysanthemums.

Main pests and diseases of chrysanthemums

1. Chrysanthemum brown spot disease. Symptoms: At the initial stage, round or elliptical lesions appear on the leaves. The lesions vary in size and are yellow or purplish-brown, later turning into dark brown sunken lesions. They gradually expand, and in severe cases many lesions connect, the leaf surface becomes scorched, and then the leaves fall off.

2. Causes: The disease period is from April to October. It overwinters on diseased leaves as mycelium and pycnidia, and spreads through wind and rain. It is severe in rainy autumns, and also severe when plants are too densely planted. When temperatures are high, the disease develops rapidly.

3. Control methods: Promptly remove diseased leaves to reduce the source of infection, and select healthy mother plants for propagation. Avoid wetting the lower leaves when watering, and drain promptly after rain. Regularly spray 50% carbendazim 800 solution, or 75% chlorothalonil 800 times solution, once every 7-10 days.

Chrysanthemums have strong adaptability, prefer cool places, and are resistant to cold and frost. They grow suitably in dry, fertile, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic to neutral. In fact, as long as you understand chrysanthemums' preferences and master the planting methods, they are very easy plants to keep alive, requiring little care, and can quickly grow into a large patch.