Pruning Branches and Leaves of Potted Peonies and Cutting Propagation Techniques

As the national flower of China, the peony blooms with opulent splendor and possesses a unique beauty. Countless scholars and poets have recited the moving verse: “Melancholy before the steps, the red peony, at evening only two branches remain“. The peony has extremely high ornamental value and medicinal value, and growing peonies well is by no means an easy task. Today, the editor will take you through how peonies should be pruned.

How to Prune Branches and Leaves of Potted Peonies

In early spring, the peony awakens from dormancy and gradually transitions into the growth period. At this time, check the small buds on the branches and keep only the top 2~3 tender buds, removing all the rest. In addition, check whether the root crown has produced suckers and dig them out promptly. Pruning after flowering: after the peony's flowering period, remove all the petals and withered leaves, which can reduce nutrient consumption in the pot and benefit flower bud differentiation. When flower bud differentiation becomes more obvious, keep only the buds on both sides of the branch and cut off all the tender buds at the top.

Pruning before winter: the plant happens to enter its dormant period in winter, and this is the best time to prune. Cut off all overlapping branches, crossing branches, and diseased or pest-infested branches. Thin, weak branches can be shortened to promote rejuvenation. For leggy branches, shorten them to reduce nutrient consumption.

Dutch peony pruning method: this is a relatively common pruning method. After the flowers fade in April to May, cut off the spent flowers; in early June, dig out part of the new shoots that emerge. In mid-September, shorten the branches. The main purpose of this pruning method is to establish the main trunk. Through pruning, beautiful branches will continuously grow, and the space occupied is relatively small, but the drawback is that fewer flowers bloom in the short term.

Can Peonies Be Propagated by Cuttings?

Cutting propagation is a method that uses the peony's branches, which readily produce adventitious roots, to propagate new plants, and is one of the asexual propagation methods.

The method is to first cut off the cuttings, detach them from the mother plant, and then insert them into soil or another substrate so they take root and become new plants.

For peony cutting propagation, choose current-year soil shoots emerging from the peony's root crown, or when shaping and pruning the peony, choose branches with substantial stems, plump terminal buds, and no pests or diseases as cuttings, 10-18 cm long. The peony's roots are fleshy roots and prefer a dry, high location, dislike moisture, and tolerate drought. Therefore, the seedling bed should be chosen in a ventilated, sunny spot and built into a raised bed for raising seedlings. When cutting, water each bed immediately after finishing inserting that bed, giving one thorough watering.

Cutting substrate:

Choose loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the substrate, with a pH value between 5 and 6, and it is best to disinfect it with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution before use.

Cutting time:

Carry out from June to July each year, when there is more rain and the soil temperature and air temperature are also relatively suitable, giving a high cutting survival rate.

Cutting method:

1. Bud cuttings: select branches with relatively plump axillary buds, cut off the inflorescence, and cut at the internodes. Each node with a segment of branch about 2 cm long serves as a cutting. Thin out some of the small leaves, insert flat into the substrate to a depth of 5 cm with the leaves exposed above the soil surface, at a plant and row spacing of 5 cm × 10 cm. (2) Softwood cuttings: select fully grown and vigorous branches, cut off the inflorescence, and cut into segments of 2 to 3 nodes each, with each segment about 10 cm long. Keep one leaf at the upper end and thin out some of the small leaves, insert 2 nodes into the soil, with the upper node bearing small leaves exposed above the soil surface, at a plant and row spacing of 10 cm × 10 cm.

Management after insertion:

After insertion, water thoroughly once with a fine-rose watering can so that the cuttings are in close contact with the substrate. Set up an arched frame over the bed, cover it with plastic film, and put on straw curtains to create a semi-shaded environment. Keep the temperature at around 25°C; when it is too high, ventilate appropriately to lower the temperature, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots will form in about 40 days. Gradually remove the film and straw curtains, and transplant and set them out in the following spring, when they will bloom that same year.

How to Make Peonies Bloom Well

“The peony would rather give up its life than give up its flowers.” When the peony blooms, it consumes a large amount of nutrients, and its resistance is relatively poor. Only by strengthening care and management at this time can large, brightly colored flowers be ensured, which is also beneficial to later growth and the formation of flower buds that year. The main management points before and after flowering are as follows:

Cold protection

In the middle reaches of the Yellow River region, peonies sprout in early February. Because the early spring climate is changeable and they are easily harmed by cold waves and late frosts, special attention must be paid to cold protection. Potted peonies should be moved to a sheltered, sunny spot; for field-planted peonies, it is best to build a straw shed for protection, or light damp firewood and straw before frost to produce smoke to prevent frost damage.

Bud thinning

Peony flowering is similar to fruit trees bearing fruit, and also shows an “on-year and off-year” phenomenon. After buds become visible, thin the buds appropriately according to the tree's vigor and the previous year's flowering situation. If there are many flower buds that year, it can be regarded as an “on-year”, and a portion of the smaller, lower-positioned flower buds should be removed (about one third). Bud thinning should be done early rather than late.

Foliar topdressing before flowering

After the peony unfurls its leaves, because photosynthesis strengthens, the leaves have a certain ability to absorb fertilizer. At this time, 0.1%-0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be used for foliar spraying. If it can be sprayed 2-3 times before flowering, the flower buds can be made fuller and larger, and the flowers will bloom more brightly.

Watering

In the north, spring is dry with little rain. In addition to watering once in early March, water thoroughly once more before flowering (early April). As the flowering period approaches, stop watering. Do not spray water on the leaves or flowers, otherwise it will shorten the flowering time and make the flowers fade quickly.

Shading

When the peony blooms, it dislikes strong winds and scorching sun. To prolong the flowering time, use thin white cloth (do not use colored cloth or printed cloth) to shade it when the flower buds first open; this can extend the flowering period by 4-7 days.

Cutting off spent flowers

After the peony finishes blooming, promptly cut off the spent flowers, which not only avoids the sight of “decline” but also reduces nutrient consumption. Some single-petaled varieties set seed very easily; if not for hybrid seed collection, their flowers should also be cut off promptly.

Fertilizing after flowering

Because peony flowering consumes a large amount of nutrients, foliar topdressing before flowering alone is far from enough to replenish them; after flowering, a relatively large amount of fertilizer must be applied to make up for it. For fertilizing, it is best to use fully decomposed mixed fertilizer of the three cakes (sesame cake, soybean cake, cottonseed cake, or rapeseed cake). The amount of fertilizer applied should be determined according to the size of the plant. When fertilizing, keep a certain distance from the root crown and open a shallow ring-shaped trench about 15 cm deep to apply it. Water thoroughly immediately after application.

How to Control the Blooming Time of Peonies

To control the blooming time of peonies, generally choose 4- to 5-year-old plants with many plump buds and robust growth. They can be potted 45-60 days before New Year's Day (Spring Festival), and after being moved indoors, the temperature should be gradually raised, controlled at 15-20°C during the day and 10-15°C at night, with frequent spraying of water on the leaves and ground to increase relative humidity.

After the peony unfurls its leaves, gradually increase light, apply a light fertilizer once every 7-10 days, and spray the leaves with a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution. In this way, after 40-45 days, or at most 60 days (varying by variety), they can show color and open on New Year's Day (or Spring Festival). After flowering, lower the temperature appropriately and keep it at 10-15°C to extend the flowering period.

Only the peony is truly of national beauty; when it blooms, it stirs the capital. The beauty of the peony is hard to describe in words. Set off by layer upon layer of green leaves, one exquisite peony after another blooms in full, like beautiful girls wearing exquisite and charming skirts. When a breeze passes, they seem like fairies that make one flustered, and again like goddesses that make one dare not approach, elusive and hard to fathom.