A Detailed Guide to Pomelo Tree Cultivation Techniques and Grafting Methods

The pomelo tree is a very common tree, and it is currently distributed in many parts of our country. Pomelo has high edible value and sells well on the market, so many people are now growing pomelo trees. However, before planting a pomelo tree, most people probably still want to have a comprehensive understanding of its cultivation methods and grafting techniques.

Cultivation Techniques for Pomelo Trees

1. Land preparation and trenching: After land preparation, dig trenches with a width of 100 cm and a depth of 60-80 cm, applying base fertilizer in layers. That is, use garbage, straw, branches and leaves, turf, etc. in the bottom layer, at 5000-10000 kg per mu; apply barn manure, compost, cake fertilizer, etc. in the upper layer, at 250 kg per mu. Apply fertilizer in layers and backfill soil in layers, and finally plant. The soil surface should be 20-30 cm higher than the trench surface.

2. Planting density: Pomelo trees grow vigorously and have large canopies. Grafted trees enter the full fruit-bearing period in 6-7 years, so the density of block planting should not be too high. For slopes above 20 degrees, plant 45 trees per mu; for 10-20 degrees, plant 40 trees per mu; for gentle slopes below 10 degrees, plant about 35 trees per mu. Configure pollinizer trees: Pomelo has strong fruiting ability, but cross-pollination can increase the fruit-setting rate and enlarge the fruit, so several single lines should be mixed when planting.

3. Planting time: Pomelo can be planted in spring (March) or autumn (November). Planting in early to mid-March is better. Planting should be done on cloudy days or in the evening on sunny days. It is not suitable to plant on rainy days or when the soil is too wet.

4. Planting method: Before planting, dig a large pit 1 m square, apply plenty of organic fertilizer and an appropriate amount of phosphate fertilizer as base fertilizer, and backfill soil to 20-30 cm above the ground. When planting, gently place the seedling into the hole, plant with loose broken soil, press the fine soil around the root ball firmly with your hands, and expose the graft union above the ground. After planting, shape the basin to 20 cm above the ground and water thoroughly to settle the roots.

Grafting Methods for Pomelo Trees

Single-bud cut grafting method:

1. Cutting the scion: Place the prismatic side of the scion upward and the flat side downward against the index finger. About 1 cm below the bud point, make a forward diagonal cut at a 45° angle. Then turn the flat side of the scion upward and cut off the bark layer from near the bud point forward. The cut surface should be smooth, just reaching the cambium, and slightly exposing the white part of the xylem is ideal. Then turn the scion to the side with the bud point upward. Cut it off about 0.2 cm above the bud point and place it in a basin of clean water.

2. Cutting the rootstock: At 6-8 cm above the ground on the rootstock, choose a smooth side and diagonally cut off the upper part of the rootstock at a 45° angle. Then, below the diagonal surface, make a vertical cut along the boundary between the bark and the xylem. A cut surface just showing the white xylem is best. The length of the cut surface depends on the length of the scion.

3. Inserting the bud and wrapping: Choose a bud as close as possible in size and length to the cut surface of the rootstock, insert it into the cut surface of the rootstock, make the base of the bud fit tightly against the bottom of the rootstock cut, and make the cambium of the rootstock and the cut surface of the scion closely connected. If the rootstock is thicker than the scion, align the cambium on one side, which makes it easier to achieve a successful graft. Finally, wrap with plastic film tape and seal with wax.

Fertilization Techniques for Pomelo Trees

1. Recovery fertilizer (base fertilizer): Apply before and after fruit harvest. Its fertilization amount accounts for half of the annual fertilization amount. A large amount of slow-release fertilizers such as green manure, compost, barnyard manure, and cake fertilizer should be applied, together with quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer and phosphate fertilizer.

2. Bud-promoting fertilizer (pre-flowering fertilizer): Generally carried out in February-March. This fertilizer should be mainly quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, mainly using human and livestock manure, with an appropriate combination of urea.

3. Fruit-stabilizing fertilizer: Apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer and phosphate fertilizer half a month before the June fruit drop. Rotted human and livestock manure can be used, and a 1% superphosphate extract can be sprayed.

4. Fruit-strengthening fertilizer: Apply in mid-to-late June, using quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer and phosphate-potassium fertilizer.

Pomelo Tree Pests and Diseases and Their Control

1. From the end of February before flowering to early April, spray pesticides continuously 2 times, mainly to control mites, while also controlling other pests. Use pesticides: insecticide + acaricide + fungicide.

2. In the young fruit stage after flower drop, from mid-May to late June, spray pesticides continuously 2 times, mainly to control scale insects, while also controlling other pests. Use pesticides: insecticide + fungicide.

3. In autumn, from mid-July to early September, spray pesticides continuously 3-4 times, mainly to control citrus leafminer, and also to control swallowtail butterflies, anthracnose, etc. Use pesticides: insecticide + fungicide.

4. In winter, spray lime sulfur mixture once to clean the orchard. For insecticides, you can choose chlorpyrifos, trichlorfon, fenpropathrin, Dagongchen, etc., used alternately. For fungicides, you can choose any one of carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, zineb, etc. For acaricides, you can choose propargite, mie man ling, etc., sprayed alternately. Spraying should be uniform and thorough.

When planting pomelo trees, you must do a good job of land preparation, and then sow at the appropriate time. The planting time is generally spring, and the planting density also needs to be well controlled. If you want to graft, you can choose the single-bud cut grafting method. The detailed introduction above is hoped to be helpful to everyone.