How to plant kiwi fruit tree saplings, and can they be grown in the north?

SummarySaplings: buy saplings from after autumn to before Spring Festival. Time: best planted in spring. Land preparation: rows running north-south, form ridges along the rows. Deep plowing: broadcast fermented manure. Trenching: 60-80 cm deep, 80-100 cm wide. Saplings: if they are grafted saplings, cut off all the rootstock buds. Pollination: carry out hand pollination. Planting: at a plant spacing of 0.7 m, plant on one side of the ridge. Keeping them alive: cover with wet grass, cover the grass with plastic film, after sprouting wipe off the rootstock buds, and do not interplant or intercrop between the rows. Fertilizing: fertilize and water at the right times.

Kiwi fruit is extremely nutritious, and kiwi fruit is also deeply loved and welcomed by the broad masses of friends, so now many people grow some kiwi fruit trees in their own homes. Of course, kiwi fruit trees are mainly more common in the south, so can kiwi fruit trees be grown in the north? What planting methods are there when we plant kiwi fruit saplings? Next, the editor will answer them one by one for everyone.

How to plant kiwi fruit tree saplings

1. Preparing the saplings

1. Buying saplings: it is best to buy saplings from after autumn to before Spring Festival. Buying saplings after Spring Festival makes variety mixing very likely, and good varieties are lacking. Both open-field and greenhouse planting use rows running north-south, with a plant spacing of 0.7 m and a row spacing of about 1.8-2 m, planting about 500 plants per mu.

2. Transporting saplings: load them when the temperature is above zero, and seal them tightly after the saplings are soaked. When the saplings arrive home, unload them when the temperature is above zero and put them indoors, cover them tightly to keep them warm and moist, and it is strictly forbidden to place them in an environment below zero.

3. Storing saplings: if after buying the saplings you do not plant them immediately, then you can store them. The method is: choose weather above zero, bury the saplings in bundles flat in a pit, the pit 60-80 cm deep, cover with 30 cm of soil slightly higher than the ground surface, cover the top with a pile of grass, do not irrigate, only sprinkle water, and keep them below 7 degrees. This method tends to heat up, so plant immediately after the soil thaws in spring.

2. Planting time: open-field autumn planting of kiwi fruit freezes to death easily, and greenhouse autumn planting is not good for dormancy, so for both open-field and greenhouse planting, spring planting is best, the time being January-May, after the soil thaws and after sprouting, but the later it is, the weaker the growth. In addition, for greenhouses you can also plant the trees first and build the greenhouse afterward.

3. Land preparation and ridging: both open-field and greenhouse planting use rows running north-south, with a row spacing of 1.8-2 m, forming ridges along the rows. In areas where soil is mounded in winter to protect against cold, form large ridges; in areas where soil is not mounded in winter to protect against cold, form small ridges. Before ridging there are two ways of preparing the land.

4. Deep plowing of the whole orchard: broadcast fermented manure on the ground, usually about 5 cubic meters per mu, more than 10 cubic meters per mu for new greenhouses, and old greenhouses have higher organic matter content, so no manure may be applied. Then thoroughly deep plow about 40 cm.

5. Digging trenches along the rows: 60-80 cm deep, 80-100 cm wide, fill the lower half with about 500 kg of weeds mixed with mature soil, and fill the upper half with about 5 cubic meters per mu of organic fertilizer, also mixed with mature soil, until filled full. If there is not enough mature soil, you can dig it from between the rows, and scatter the subsoil between the rows, then use a large amount of water to settle it.

6. Sapling treatment: if they are grafted saplings, then cut off all the rootstock buds, keep only the grafted buds, and untie the binding film.

7. Planting pollinator trees: kiwi fruit is dioecious, so pollinator trees must be matched at 1/9 (that is, plant one among eight), or plant the male plants separately and collect pollen from them for hand pollination.

8. Planting method: along the rows at a plant spacing of 0.7 m, plant on one side of the ridge. The planting method is as follows.

1. In areas where soil is mounded in winter to protect against cold, plant on one side of the large ridge: plant slanting toward the north, with the graft union about 10 cm above the ground, so that in the future above the graft union no roots will form, and it is also convenient for mounding soil in winter to protect against cold. After planting, water heavily, and when the ground surface looks dry, continue mounding soil more than 10 cm above the graft union, and after sprouting pull the soil mound away.

2. In areas where soil is not mounded in winter to protect against cold, plant on one side of the small ridge: plant slanting toward the north, with the graft union about 25 cm above the ground, after planting water heavily, and when the ground surface looks dry continue mounding soil, mounding up to 10 cm above the graft union, so that the sapling is on the large ridge, and after sprouting pull the soil away to expose the graft union.

9. Keeping moist and keeping alive

1. Along the rows first cover with 5 cm thick wet grass, and cover the grass with plastic film, to maintain moisture and raise ground temperature.

2. After sprouting, promptly wipe off the rootstock buds, otherwise the sprouting grafted buds will not grow.

3. It is best not to interplant or intercrop between the rows; if you do interplant or intercrop, then it must be pulled up in early May, otherwise it affects light exposure.

10. Speeding up growth

1. After planting, water once every 7-10 days, keeping the ground surface moist, until September. During this period, if there is one heavy rain, you can water one time less, but light rain cannot replace watering.

2. From May to August, with each watering apply about 10 kg per mu of 16-8-16 compound fertilizer, dissolve it in advance, and apply it by flushing with the water.

3. About every 15 days spray the underside of the leaves once with No. 24 leaf fertilizer.

Can kiwi fruit trees be grown in the north

The north can grow kiwi fruit. Temperature is the main factor limiting the distribution and growth and development of kiwi fruit, and each species has a suitable temperature range; beyond this range it grows poorly or cannot survive. The temperature requirements among kiwi fruit populations are also not very consistent; for example, Actinidia chinensis grows and develops well at an annual average temperature of 4-20°C, while Actinidia deliciosa is most widely distributed within the range of 13-18°C.

What growing conditions are suitable for kiwi fruit

1. Temperature: kiwi fruit can grow in areas with an annual average temperature above 10°C, but the most suitable areas are those with an annual average temperature of 15-18.5°C, an extreme maximum temperature of 33.3-41.4°C, an average maximum temperature in July of 30-34°C, an average temperature in January of 4.5-5°C, an annual accumulated temperature of 4,500-5,200°C, and a frost-free period of 210-290 days.

2. Light: kiwi fruit has different light requirements at different tree ages. During the seedling stage it likes shade and coolness, and fears high temperatures and strong sunlight. Sunshine should be more than 1,900 hours.

3. Water: the ideal production area for kiwi fruit has an annual precipitation of 1,200-2,000 mm and an annual relative humidity of about 80%. High mountains have a lot of fog and high humidity year-round, which is relatively ideal for kiwi fruit growth.

4. Altitude: it can be cultivated in zones from 40-2,000 m above sea level, with below 1,000 m being relatively ideal. Altitudes above 2,000 m.

How to prune kiwi fruit trees in winter

1. Young trees planted in the current year

First leave 3 plump buds at the base of the plant and cut back, then later select and keep the thickest branch as the trunk, and use light pruning so that the tree crown expands rapidly the following year.

2. Trees that have grown for 1 year and entered the juvenile stage

During winter pruning, try as much as possible to make the fruiting mother canes growing from the main canes evenly distributed on the trellis, and on the basis of promoting the growth of the main canes, side canes and fruiting mother canes, increase the proportion of fruiting canes bearing fruit.

3. Adult trees

Pruning of adult trees should be light; short-prune the fruiting canes, generally leaving 4-5 buds at the cut, for vigorous canes leave 4-5 buds to make them sprout 2-4 new shoots; for normally vigorous vegetative canes, cut off 1/3 or 1/2 of the total length to make them transform into fruiting mother canes; for long and medium fruiting canes and overlapping crossing canes, leave 8-10 buds and short-prune, for medium fruiting mother canes leave 5-6 buds, and for weaker ones leave 3-4 buds.

4. Plants that are old and whose tree vigor is weak

Carry out cane renewal; the specific method should be based on the condition of the branches, focusing on keeping the fruiting canes that grow plump at the base of the mother cane, and you can cut back to the vigorous part; for mother canes that grow too weakly, cut them off from the base where there are latent buds, and let the latent buds sprout vigorous new shoots.

In the article above, the editor also taught everyone some planting methods related to kiwi fruit. Although kiwi fruit trees are more common in the south, they can actually also be grown in the north, and if there is land at home, you can actually also plant some fruit trees as appropriate. After all, many fruits on the market now are sprayed with pesticides and ripening agents.