How to Grow Vermilion Tangerine? Detailed Explanation of Planting Techniques and Management Methods
Does anyone like vermilion tangerine? How much do you all know about vermilion tangerine? Do you know how to grow vermilion tangerine? Do you know the planting techniques and management methods for vermilion tangerine? The editor has gathered a lot of related information for everyone, hoping it can be of help. Friends who are interested in sour tangerine can take a look with me and add to their everyday knowledge.
How to Grow Vermilion Tangerine
1. Train the main branch and scaffold branches
The first step is to train the main branch and scaffold branches. After successful grafting, pruning should begin once the grafted bud or scion sprouts and grows. Because citrus buds are multiple buds, if 2 or more shoots sprout from the grafted bud or scion, only the topmost shoot needs to be kept as the trunk to be trained, and the remaining shoots should be removed from the base. When the retained shoot grows and matures, cut off the upper part of the branch, leaving only about 10 cm as the trunk; this is called trunk determination, allowing it to sprout again and produce side branches. After trunk determination, multiple side branches will sprout on the trunk. These side branches are used as scaffold branches and are pruned again after they mature. Each branch base should retain more than 5 to 6 nodes, allowing it to produce second-level side branches. After the second-level side branches mature, prune them in the same way, and continue pruning in this manner afterward, pruning 3 to 4 times each year (according to the number of shoot flushes), so that the plant forms a good canopy. After each pruning, if the new shoots produced by each branch are too many and too dense, part of the overly dense and weak new shoots should also be removed. On the plant, if any unsuitable water sprouts are found, they should also be cut off at any time. This is only the first step.
2. The last pruning before fruiting
The last pruning before fruiting is very important, because for different types and varieties, the timing of the last pruning before fruiting is not the same; in Guangdong, the pruning time of each producer is also not the same. For example, for vermilion tangerine, the last pruning time is during the period from the 7th lunar month to the 15th day of the 8th lunar month of the previous year; for four-season tangerine, the last pruning time is in the 4th lunar month, and 45 to 60 days later water control is carried out to promote flowering; for kumquat, the last pruning time is in the 5th lunar month, and then during the Great Heat period water control is carried out to promote flowering. This ensures the planting effect.
3. Remove flowers and wipe out shoots
Do you understand the process of removing flowers and wiping out shoots? Some plants of New Year tangerine that are grafted and potted in the current year can naturally bloom and bear fruit in the same year. However, because the plant is still young at this time, with few branches and poor plant shape, or with few flowers or a low fruit-setting rate, and because the natural fruit ripening period does not happen to fall around the Spring Festival, the final ornamental value of the plant is not great. Therefore, generally they are not allowed to bloom and bear fruit naturally in the current year, and are only allowed to bloom and bear fruit for viewing in the second year. In this way, in the first year, in order to reduce the plant's nutrient consumption and ensure better growth of branches and leaves, after the plant naturally blooms, the flower buds must be promptly removed by hand to avoid fruiting. From the second year onward, the plant will bloom and bear fruit multiple times, that is, shoots at various stages can become fruit-bearing mother branches or fruit-bearing branches, blooming and bearing fruit in the same year. If it is to be allowed to bloom and bear fruit for viewing only in the third year, then from the second year onward, each time the shoots bloom, the flower buds and flowers must be promptly removed by hand to avoid fruiting; moreover, for those with too many and too dense shoots, part of the overly dense and weak shoots should also be wiped out. If it is to be allowed to bloom and bear fruit for viewing only in the fourth year, then in the third year flower removal and shoot wiping should also be carried out as in the second year. The process is important.
4. Pruning after fruiting
Pruning after fruiting is an important step. For different types and varieties of New Year tangerine, after one round of blooming and fruiting, they often continue to bloom and bear fruit. If the number of fruits set earlier is already sufficient, the later flowers should be removed by hand; otherwise, they should be allowed to continue blooming and fruiting to ensure that the whole plant finally has a sufficient number of fruits. But if the number of fruits is really too large, proper fruit thinning should instead be carried out. In addition, after the plant bears fruit, new shoots will still emerge. These shoots are generally allowed to grow freely and are only shortened or thinned about 20 days before viewing or sale, with the purpose of making the final ornamental plant have dense and evenly distributed branches and fruits. Only in this way can it grow well.
Vermilion Tangerine Planting Techniques and Management Methods
I. Vermilion Tangerine Planting Techniques
1. Rootstock propagation
The first is rootstock propagation. The rootstock seedlings for cultivating potted vermilion tangerine include trifoliate orange, citron, red lemon, four-season tangerine, sour tangerine, and so on. According to the climate conditions of our city, we choose citron as the rootstock seedling; after grafting, its root system is shallow, with well-developed fibrous roots, and it sends out shoots quickly and abundantly. The cutting propagation method is adopted to breed rootstock seedlings, as follows: in August to September, select 1- to 2-year-old sturdy branches with sufficient nutrient accumulation, cut them into 15 to 20 cm long segments with 4 to 5 buds, with the cuts at both ends about 1 cm from the buds, sharpen the lower end into a longer slant, remove the leaves at the lower end of the cutting, keep 2 to 3 leaves at the top, cut off 1/2 of each leaf, and soak the base of the cutting in rooting powder. At a plant and row spacing of 3 to 5 cm × 10 cm, insert them into a sand bed to a depth of 2/3 of the cutting length, taking care to spray water on the leaf surface and sand bed, keeping the air and soil moist, and carry out root-promoting cultivation. After the first new shoot above ground matures, they can be separated into beds in the field to cultivate sturdy rootstock seedlings. Try it yourself.
2. Grafting and seedling raising
Grafting and seedling raising uses the small-bud cut grafting method. Grafting from before Great Cold to after the Beginning of Spring gives the best results. One week before grafting, first cut the rootstock and water appropriately to make the sap flow more vigorously, so as to increase the survival rate of grafting. Do not apply fertilizer water for half a month after grafting, and afterward apply fertilizer once about every 10 days, combined with foliar topdressing. The "sucker shoots" sprouting on the rootstock must be wiped out in time. After the first shoot matures, short pruning should be carried out in combination with shaping, and the binding can be untied to promote the growth of second-level branches, so as to cultivate a good canopy. A very important method.
3. Seedling selection and potting
Seedling selection and potting is a key step. After the new shoots of the grafted seedling mature, in cool weather (except low-temperature frost weather in winter), select seedlings with a round and upright canopy, thick branches, green leaves, and well-developed roots for potting, and choose the pot size according to the size of the seedling and the strength of the plant's growth; use a 2.5 kg washed and disinfected clay pot for small seedlings, and a 3.5 kg clay pot for sturdy seedlings or seedlings over half a year old. When potting, first cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with a small tile to prevent soil leakage and facilitate drainage and ventilation. Use a medium with strong water permeability, ventilation, fertilizer retention, and water retention for the potting soil, preferably 30% coal cinder and 70% pond mud, and fill the pot soil to 70% to 80% full. After planting, the graft union should be exposed above the soil surface, just covering the original soil surface of the seedling, and after planting water thoroughly to settle the roots. Water each plant for the first time along with potting, and after the pots are arranged, water a second time so that the soil particles absorb enough water. Very crucial.
4. Repotting
Did you know? In fact, repotting is one of the main cultivation measures. It is generally carried out in autumn each year after the shoots mature. After repotting, a batch of new roots can still grow before winter. Before repotting, the soil should be slightly dry; avoid watering, so as to prevent the soil from crumbling and the roots from breaking. When repotting, use a wooden stick to push upward firmly at the hole in the bottom of the pot, lift the seedling out or turn it out upside down, and then plant the original plant in a larger pot. This completes it.
II. Vermilion Tangerine Planting Management Methods
1. Field planting
For field planting, vermilion tangerine must certainly be planted at a reasonable density. Then the first thing in orchard management is to field-plant the citrus plants, that is, carefully observe whether there are missing seedlings anywhere in the orchard, or where the density is too high, and also where seedlings did not survive after planting. We all need to adjust and replant in time. After all plants in the field survive, field planting is successful. The process is not difficult.
2. Fertilization
Fertilization is very important. As vermilion tangerine, a heavy fertilizer application is needed once every year, that is, after the fruit is harvested. In fact, this maintenance fertilizer is similar to the base fertilizer applied in the first year of planting, but the base fertilizer in the first year lays the foundation for the growth and fruiting of the citrus tree, while the subsequent maintenance fertilizer prepares for high yield in the coming year. Their significance is actually similar, both for high yield and high quality. Second, fertilization is also needed once each spring during the period of branch and leaf growth, which can shorten the growth period and bring it into the flowering period. After entering the flowering period, fertilization is needed again, mainly by spraying, which helps promote flowering and preserve fruit and increases the fruit-setting rate. Finally, after fruit setting, another fertilization is needed, mainly with boron fertilizer. Of course, you can spray a little agent specifically for strengthening fruit, making the citrus grow rounder and color more evenly. Fertilization is very crucial.
3. Weeding
Weeding is important, because in order to increase the yield of citrus, we generally need to carry out intertillage and weeding in the vermilion tangerine orchard at least three times each year. First, it can loosen the soil and let the fruit trees breathe; second, it reduces nutrient consumption to promote the growth of the fruit trees; third, it improves the soil's ability to store fertilizer and retain water; fourth, and most importantly, it can extend the service life of the citrus and increase yield. Generally, the normal weeding times are divided into these three: first, the season of spring branch and leaf growth; second, before the fruit trees bloom; third, after fruiting. Do you understand?
4. Pruning
Pruning is indispensable. The pruning of vermilion tangerine branches and leaves is very necessary, because after field planting the fruit trees generally will not be transplanted again, since transplanting affects yield, so the orchard density can only be effectively controlled through pruning branches and leaves. The growth of vermilion tangerine needs sufficient sunlight. Second, if it is to accumulate sugar, sunlight is also very necessary. If it is in a relatively shady environment, then you will find that vermilion tangerine is both sour and astringent, with a very bad taste. Third, we cut off the branches and leaves that have already aged, because aged branches and leaves basically cannot bear much vermilion tangerine, so it is better to let them grow new strong branches to increase yield. A very important method.
5. Orchard cleaning
Did you know? Roughly every winter, the vermilion tangerine orchard needs to be cleaned once. First, we need to clear fallen leaves, dead branches, weeds, and other materials out of the orchard. Second, we need to carry out comprehensive disinfection and sterilization of the orchard. During orchard cleaning, we must carefully observe each vermilion tangerine tree to see whether there is disease infection. If found, it needs to be dug out or treated with chemicals, and corresponding agents should be spread for prevention and control. At the same time, if more insect pests are found, it is necessary to spray trichlorfon, chlorothalonil, or Bordeaux mixture, which can effectively increase the yield of vermilion tangerine in the coming year. It is also a very important step.
Pest and Disease Control of Vermilion Tangerine
For pest and disease control of vermilion tangerine, it is understood that the main diseases of potted tangerine include anthracnose, canker, gummosis, and resin disease. The control method is to reduce sources of disease and timely select pesticides for control. For canker control, attention should also be paid to wiping out buds and controlling shoots and releasing shoots uniformly, to avoid repeated infection caused by continuous new shoots, and to spray chemicals to prevent disease after typhoon rain. For anthracnose and resin disease, attention should also be paid to strengthening cultivation management, enhancing tree vigor, and improving disease resistance. The main insect pests include citrus leafminer, swallowtail butterfly, red rust mite, aphids, leaf roller, scale insects, and so on. The control method is mainly spraying chemicals. For the control of citrus leafminer, attention should also be paid to wiping out scattered new shoots, interrupting the food source, and releasing shoots uniformly, so as to facilitate spraying to protect the shoots. In this way, pests and diseases can be effectively controlled.
After the editor's introduction, how much more do you all know about vermilion tangerine? You know how to grow vermilion tangerine, and you should also know the planting techniques and management methods for vermilion tangerine. Friends interested in sour tangerine can buy some and give it a try. I hope my explanation is helpful to everyone.