Specific Methods for Pruning, Bud Notching, Pinching, and Angle Opening of Apple Trees in Years One to Three

AbstractYear one pruning method: head the young tree at a point where there are plump buds at about 90cm, then pinch in summer. Year two pruning method: heavily short-cut the main branches in winter, notch buds in spring, pinch competing shoots in summer, and in autumn open the angle of the other branches. Year three pruning method: winter, spring, and autumn are similar to year two; in summer, thin out new shoots, pinch or short-cut vigorous shoots, and girdle the delayed branches.

Apple trees one to three years old are young apple trees. The purpose of pruning during this period is to train the tree shape, complete the basic selection and retention of scaffold branches, and create a good tree framework.

I. Pruning in the First Year

1. Heading: At a point on the apple tree where plump buds are evenly spaced, at about 90cm, cut and head the tree.

2. Summer pruning: Starting from mid to late May, when the lateral new shoots of the apple tree grow to about 20cm, pinch them, and also pinch competing branches when they grow to 10cm, so as to ensure that the central shoot can grow vigorously.

II. Pruning in the Second Year

For young apple trees planted for 1-2 years, or young trees that grow weakly and produce few branches, use a combination of medium short-cutting and heavy short-cutting, thereby cutting off half or more than half of the branch length, so as to increase the number of branches and strengthen tree vigor.

1. Winter pruning: First select an upright, upward-growing, relatively vigorous branch as the central leader, and cut the branch at a point about 1 m where there are plump buds. For the other side branches beside the main branches, according to actual conditions, carry out heavy short-cutting, or retain 2-3 feeble buds at the base for short-cutting, or cut into a horseshoe shape. If a branch is in a poor position, cut it off completely from the base.

2. Spring pruning: In late March or early April, starting from the seventh bud from the cut of the central leader, notch one bud every 6 buds, all the way to the highest point of the trunk, mainly to prepare for producing scaffold branches.

3. Summer pruning: Except for branches that need to be retained as scaffold branches, all other competing branches should be pinched as early as possible. For dense branches, remove them as early as possible, and also properly pinch excess branches.

4. Autumn pruning: In August and September, remove competing branches and dense but useless branches. Except for the central leader, all other branches should be pulled and opened in angle, pulled to about 70°-80°. This method is suitable for spindle-shaped training of dwarfing rootstocks and young apple trees of spur-type varieties.

III. Pruning in the Third Year

1. Winter pruning: First select an upright, upward-growing and vigorously growing branch as the central leader, and cut the branch at a point about 1 m where there are plump buds, while all the remaining scaffold branches and auxiliary branches between the main branches are not cut at all and are allowed to grow naturally, but individual weak main branches should be cut at plump buds.

2. Spring pruning: This is mainly bud notching. Starting from the seventh bud from the cut of the central leader, notch 1 bud every 6 buds, all the way to the highest point of the trunk. For delayed scaffold branches and the remaining branches, notch buds on both sides and the back every about 4 buds. Where there are feeble buds, notch slightly deeper, but do not notch buds in the about 25cm at the tip and the about 20cm at the base.

3. Summer pruning

(1) Remove dense but useless new shoots in the crown of the apple tree and multiple new shoots on the periphery.

(2) Pinch or short-cut vigorous shoots on competing branches and on the back of main branches.

(3) In late May, according to the degree of tree vigor, carry out girdling or ring cutting at 10cm from the base of the delayed branches that have been bud-notched. Note that the trunk must not be girdled.

4. Autumn pruning: In late summer and early autumn, in August and September, remove competing branches and dense but useless branches. Except for the central leader, all other branches should be pulled and opened in angle, pulled to about 70°-80°. If there are upright and strongly vigorous new shoots on the back of main branches, reduce and remove them.