A Detailed Explanation of Cherry Grafting Methods and Key Technical Points
AbstractFor cherry grafting, the tree species used can be plum or wild peach; the rootstock should have a diameter of more than 0.7 cm, and one-year-old branches can be used as scions. When grafting, at a point 10 cm above the ground at the base of the rootstock, use a knife to cut a long oval cut surface 2.5 cm long and 2 mm deep, then at 1.5 cm below the graft bud, cut the bud piece down from the scion, cutting it into a long oval bud piece 2.5 cm long and 2 cm thick, press the bud piece onto the cut surface, and bind it with a plastic strip.
I. Cherry Grafting Methods
1. Either plum or wild peach can be used as the grafting tree species. When grafting, the rootstock should have a diameter of more than 0.7 cm. The scion should be collected from one-year-old branches, and plump buds can be used as graft buds.
2. When grafting, at about 10 cm above the ground at the base of the rootstock, select a smooth area, and along the vertical direction, use a knife to cut a long oval cut surface about 2.5 cm long and about 2 mm deep.
3. When cutting the graft bud, make the cut at 1.5 cm below the graft bud, then gently cut the bud piece down from the scion, cutting it into a long oval bud piece 2.5 cm long and about 2 mm thick.
4. Then press the bud piece onto the cut surface of the rootstock, and finally bind it tightly with a plastic film strip.
II. Precautions After Cherry Grafting
1. Loosen the binding in time
After cherry grafting, if it encounters rain or is watered, it is prone to gumming, reducing its survival rate. Therefore, within 15 days after grafting, watering should not be carried out. After the bud-grafted saplings survive, the binding needs to be loosened in time to prevent rainwater from seeping into the bark along the binding material and causing gumming.
2. Tie the shoot to prevent breakage
After the grafted bud germinates, it grows relatively quickly. Because the wood is relatively soft, it is prone to bending or wind breakage. Therefore, when the graft bud grows to 20-30 cm, a support should be built in time, and the new shoot should be fixed to the support to prevent it from being broken by wind.
3. Cut the rootstock at the right time
For bud-grafted seedlings that have already survived, the rootstock should be cut. Generally, cutting the rootstock can be chosen when the graft bud turns green but has not yet germinated. If the rootstock is cut too early, it is easy to cause the rootstock to dry out and cause the graft bud to die. During this period, scissors can be used to cut off the rootstock seedling at about 1 cm above the graft bud. When cutting the rootstock, the side of the graft bud needs to be slightly higher, while the back side of the graft bud needs to be slightly lower, forming a slanted surface, which is beneficial for wound healing.
4. Remove buds and pinch off growing tips
During this period, the new sprouts growing on the rootstock seedling need to be continuously removed, while strengthening management work to promote vigorous growth of the grafted seedling. When the grafted seedling grows to 30-40 cm, it needs to be pinched off to promote new branches to grow from the lower part. By early to mid-July, the overly vigorous upper branches can be pinched off again, which is beneficial for increasing branch quantity and promoting early fruiting of the seedling.
5. Fertilizer and water management
After the grafted seedling sprouts, fertilizer and water management should be strengthened. During this period, water can be applied once about every 20 days, and an appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing. The first time can be chosen in mid-to-late May, with 5-10 kg of urea applied per mu as a top dressing. The second time can be chosen in mid-July, with about 15 kg of diammonium phosphate applied per mu as a top dressing. In the later stage, fertilizer and water should be appropriately controlled to ensure the maturity of the seedling and enhance its overwintering ability.
6. Prevent and control pests and diseases
After sprouting in spring, small gray weevils should be controlled in time. After the pinched seedlings sprout new shoots, pear fruit borers should be controlled in time. From early July to early August, spray 250-fold diluted Bordeaux mixture with a large amount of lime continuously twice, which can effectively prevent early defoliation.