How to Grow Pereskia: Detailed Guide to Cultivation Methods and Precautions

SummarySoil: Use leaf mold, coal cinder and garden soil, mixed at a ratio of 1/3 each for cultivation. Light: In summer, appropriate shading is needed; in other seasons, give plenty of light. Temperature: The optimum growing temperature is 22-28°C. Watering: Water only after the soil in the pot has completely dried out. Fertilizing: Apply once a month about 15% fully rotted alum fertilizer water; stop fertilizing in winter. Repotting: Repot after temperatures rise in spring. Ventilation: Keep it in a place with good air circulation.

I. Soil

1. Pereskia has low requirements for soil; any well-draining sandy soil will do. You can mix leaf mold, coal cinder and garden soil at a ratio of 1/3 each for cultivation.

2. During cultivation, there must be no water accumulation in the pot, nor should it stay moist for long periods, to avoid root rot in Pereskia. Therefore, the soil should rather be dry than too wet.

II. Light

1. Pereskia is native to hot, arid places with plenty of sunlight, so in spring and autumn give it plenty of light, and do not keep it indoors for viewing for long periods.

2. Although Pereskia likes light, it also fears intense direct sunlight. So in summer, appropriate shading is needed, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow, affecting its ornamental value.

3. Although Pereskia enters dormancy in winter, it still needs plenty of light, because basic life activities cannot do without photosynthesis.

III. Temperature

1. The suitable growing temperature for Pereskia is 22-28°C. When the summer temperature reaches 35°C, it enters dormancy. Pereskia is not cold-tolerant, so generally it should be moved indoors before the arrival of Frost's Descent.

2. In winter, the indoor temperature needs to be kept above 15°C, which ensures the leaves will not drop. As long as the temperature stays above 7°C, it can overwinter safely.

IV. Watering

1. Pereskia is a fairly drought-tolerant plant. During cultivation, watering should be on the sparse side rather than plentiful. Water only after the potting soil has completely dried out, which is commonly called “don't water until dry, and water thoroughly when you do”.

2. In winter, watering needs to be controlled even more; keep the potting soil dry during this period. Only after temperatures gradually rise in early spring of the following year can you slowly resume watering.

V. Fertilizing

1. Pereskia does not have high fertilizer demands; follow the principle of rather less than more, and rather dilute than concentrated.

2. When fertilizing, avoid concentrated and raw manure, otherwise it easily causes root rot and leaf drop. Generally, apply once a month about 15% fully rotted alum fertilizer water, and stop fertilizing in winter.

VI. Repotting

1. After temperatures rise each spring is a good time for repotting. Generally, when repotting, remove the old soil and clear away the rotted roots.

2. After repotting, keep it indoors for about 10 days, then gradually move it outdoors for care. During cultivation, be careful to keep the soil moist.

VII. Ventilation

1. Pereskia generally suffers from few pests and diseases, but that does not mean it will never get sick. If kept long-term in an unventilated environment, it is very susceptible to scale insect damage.

2. Therefore, during cultivation, keep Pereskia in a place with good air circulation, and keep it away from the kitchen and gas.