When is the time for grafting mulberry trees, and how many days does it take to confirm success?

AbstractTime for grafting mulberry trees: grafting can generally be carried out in spring, summer, and autumn. Confirming whether the grafting was successful: if the mulberry scion sprouts and can still grow normally for more than 15 days, it means the graft has taken; if the scion loses water and dries up, it means the grafting was unsuccessful; if the wound has already healed but has not yet sprouted, you can cut off the rootstock above the graft union to promote scion sprouting.

I. Time for grafting mulberry trees

1. Mulberry trees can be grafted in spring, summer, and autumn. The level of mulberry grafting skill directly affects the survival rate of mulberry trees after grafting. Common grafting methods include bag grafting, bark-tearing root grafting, side grafting, eye excavation grafting, bud grafting, etc.

2. The more commonly used method is the simple bud grafting method. During this process, 1 bud can be cut from a branch and then grafted onto the rootstock. Its advantages are saving scions, a smaller rootstock wound that is easier to heal, and the ability to graft again if one grafting does not survive.

II. Confirming whether the grafting was successful

1. If the mulberry scion sprouts and can still grow normally for more than 15 days, it means the graft has taken; if it still has not sprouted about 50 days after spring grafting, you should untie the plastic film and check the healing condition of the scion.

2. If the scion loses water and dries up, it means it has died; if the wound has already healed but has not yet sprouted, you can cut off the rootstock above the graft union, which helps promote scion sprouting.

III. Simple bud grafting method for mulberry trees

1. Cutting the graft bud

(1) The simple bud grafting method is generally commonly used. First, cut the graft bud. Select a plump and robust winter bud on the scion shoot, then make the cut 1 cm below the bud, with the knife at a 35° angle to the scion shoot, cutting smoothly into the xylem to a depth reaching 1/5 of the scion shoot.

(2) Then, from 0.5 cm above the tip of the bud, with the knife at a 20° angle to the scion, cut smoothly into the xylem to a depth reaching 1/5 of the scion shoot and connect to the first cut, then remove the bud piece. Generally, the cut surface is required to be smooth, and a small amount of xylem may be included appropriately. The cut surface must be clean and must not be contaminated with mud or sand.

2. Cutting the rootstock

Saw off the stump at a distance of 10-15 cm from the ground. During this process, the saw cut should be smooth, then choose a smooth part of the trunk and make a cut with two cuts that is the same shape and size as the bud piece, with the same length as well.

3. Inserting the bud piece

Generally, after the rootstock is cut, place the cut surface of the prepared bud piece against the xylem of the rootstock, with the upper end aligned with the rootstock cut. If the bud piece is too narrow, align it to one side; if it is too wide, shave off a little from both sides of the bud piece so that the bud piece fits the cut, so that at least one side of the cambium of the rootstock and scion is aligned.

4. Wrapping

After the bud piece is inserted, use the prepared plastic film strip to tie it tightly from below the union upward. When tying, the bud needs to be left exposed, until the entire cut surface of the union is wrapped. Then tie the plastic film strip into a knot, but be careful that the graft union does not leak air when tying.