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Is Malus micromalus a deciduous tree or an evergreen tree?

General News By Sophie Bennett 0 views
Malus micromalus is a plant in the class Magnoliopsida, family Rosaceae, genus Malus. It is a plant endemic to China, grows well in the dry zones of the north, and is a relatively popular product in landscaping projects. So, is Malus micromalus a deciduous tree or an evergreen tree? 1. Malus

Malus micromalus is a plant in the class Magnoliopsida, family Rosaceae, genus Malus. It is a plant endemic to China, grows well in the dry zones of the north, and is a relatively popular product in landscaping projects. So, is Malus micromalus a deciduous tree or an evergreen tree?

1. Is Malus micromalus a deciduous tree or an evergreen tree?

Malus micromalus is a small deciduous tree, reaching 2.5-5 m tall, with strongly upright branches; the twigs are slender and cylindrical, covered with short pubescence when young and shedding it when old, purple-red or dark brown, with sparse lenticels; the winter buds are ovoid, sharply pointed at the apex, hairless or with down only along the edges, dark purple.

2. Propagation methods

Crabapples are usually propagated by grafting or division, and can also be propagated by sowing, layering and root cuttings. Seedlings obtained by grafting can flower earlier and retain the original excellent characteristics.

1. Sowing method

Although seedlings grow slowly, they often produce variations, so the sowing method is still used when obtaining large quantities of rootstock or for cross-breeding. Common rootstock species used in northern China include Malus baccata, Malus micromalus and Malus prunifolia; in the south, Malus hupehensis is used. Before sowing, crabapple seeds must undergo 30 days to 100 days of cold stratification. Fully stratified seeds emerge quickly and uniformly, and the emergence rate is high; seeds that are not stratified cannot germinate, or germinate very little. It is also possible to harvest the fruit in autumn, remove the flesh, dry it slightly and then sow it in a sand bed, letting the seeds after-ripen naturally. The covering depth of soil is about 1 cm, covered with plastic film to preserve moisture; after emergence, remove the plastic film and promptly spread a layer of loose fertile soil; strengthen fertilizer and water management during the seedling stage, and by late autumn of the same year they can be transplanted.

2. Grafting method

Use seedlings propagated by sowing as rootstock for stem grafting or bud grafting. For stem grafting or bud grafting. In spring, when the sap flows and buds sprout, carry out stem grafting; in autumn (between July and September), bud grafting can be done. For stem grafting, methods such as cut grafting and cleft grafting can be used. Select fully developed 1-year-old branches as scions, take their middle section (with more than 2 plump buds), and after grafting cover the scion with fine soil; for bud grafting, the “T” method is mostly used. About 10 days after grafting, if the bud is fresh and the petiole falls off at a touch, this is proof that the graft has taken, and after a few days the binding material can be removed. When the seedling is 80 cm to 100 cm tall, train the scaffold branches, and thereafter only prune overly dense branches, inward-growing branches and overlapping branches to keep the crown round and neat.

3. Division method

Carry out in early spring before budding or after leaf fall in autumn and winter; dig out the suckers sprouting from the root crown, divide them into several individual plants, or take 2-3 rooted suckers as a cluster and transplant them. After dividing and planting, water thoroughly in time, pay attention to preserving soil moisture, provide shade when necessary, and water during drought.

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