A detailed explanation of the differences between runner beans and red beans, teaching you to quickly tell the two beans apart

Runner beans are a legume plant with diverse colors, similar in appearance to red beans, and many people think they are the same, but they are not, so what are the differences between runner beans and red beans?

1. What are the differences between runner beans and red beans?

Runner beans are plants of the genus Phaseolus in the legume family, and the seeds are shaped like human kidneys, covered all over with red vein-like markings, and have the effects of nourishing yin and strengthening yang and strengthening the body. Red beans are the collective name for the seeds of the plants Adenanthera pavonina and Ormosia in the mimosa family, and the seeds are flat-round or heart-shaped, mostly red, and suitable for making porridge.

2. How are red beans grown?

1. Reasonable seed selection

There are now quite a few types of red bean seeds on the market, with large red beans and small red beans, among which large red beans and small red beans are further divided into many types, so when selecting seeds, the first thing we must consider is the yield of the red beans, the second is whether the germination rate of the seeds is high, and the last is the various resistances of the seeds. We will choose red bean varieties suitable for local planting according to factors such as the soil, climate, temperature and rainfall of different regions. At the same time, no matter how good the variety is, you must not buy old seeds; the survival rate is too low and the loss is too great.

2. Scientific land preparation

Because red beans themselves have a stronger ability to adapt to the environment than other crops, we can choose to ignore the selection of the planting site, but one thing that must be considered is that the planting site should not have too much water, that is, the soil moisture must not be too high, otherwise it is very easy to develop disease and affect yield. When preparing the land, we need to completely clear away the debris in the field, plow the soil deeply once, then spread a layer of lime to eliminate bacteria, expose it to the sun for about ten days, spread a layer of livestock manure or plant ash, and then make ridges and dig furrows and wait for sowing.

3. Sowing method

The skin of red beans is relatively hard. If sown directly, the seeds germinate very slowly, and the sprouting rate is not very high either. So before sowing, we need to soak the red bean seeds in clean water for about twenty minutes, then dress the seeds with a chemical agent, leave them for about twenty minutes, then rinse them clean with water, and place them in an environment at a temperature of 25 degrees to promote sprouting. After about five days, they can be sown. There are two sowing methods: one is to make a small hole in the ground at intervals of 30 cm, sow three seeds in each small hole, and then cover them with soil. The other is to first cultivate the seeds in a seedbed, and when the seedlings grow to about 10 cm, transplant them according to a certain density.

4. Fertilization techniques

Fertilizing red beans requires technical skill and cannot be done randomly. Too much fertilizer will cause the bean seedlings to grow excessively without forming pods; too little fertilizer will leave the pods not plump and the quality substandard; and the wrong type of fertilizer will cause the plants to die or become diseased. The entire growth period requires two fertilizations. The first is the seedling-promoting fertilizer, that is, about one week after transplanting, averaging 100 jin of urea, 50 jin of phosphate fertilizer and 30 jin of compound fertilizer per mu. The second fertilization is when the red bean seedlings enter the flowering and pod-setting stage. This period is when red beans need the most nutrients and is also the key period that determines yield. We evenly spread an average of 300 jin of farmyard manure, 100 jin of potassium fertilizer and 50 jin of boron fertilizer per mu.

5. Disease prevention

Red beans have relatively strong resistance to diseases, so under normal circumstances there are rarely pests and diseases, but occasionally rust disease, aphids and leaf rollers appear. The most effective control method is to spray a 1000-1500 times dilution of 5% triadimefon wettable powder, or an 8000 times dilution of 40% Fuxing emulsifiable concentrate, or

an 800 times dilution of 50% carboxin emulsifiable concentrate, or a 200 times dilution of 50% sulfur suspension concentrate, spraying once every six or seven days, two to three times in total. For aphids and leaf rollers, mainly trichlorfon solution or dimethoate emulsion is used for spraying.